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Posted By Topic: Induction cooktop and oven wiring

Boony
Aug 06 2019 21:41

Would it be fine to run 4mm TPS to junction box then split to two seperate switches then 4mm tps again from each switch to oven and hop respectively. Both feeds will come from from a 32 amp breaker.
   

bakinthegame
Aug 06 2019 23:12

You will need to upsize the cable to at least 6mm if you have a 32A MCB.
Why the need for a junction box? Is the supply existing & you are extending it?
It would be better to run the 6mm direct to the switch & then a loop to the next one.
You’ll also need to check what the appliances draw to see if a 6mm will be sufficient.

   

Boony
Aug 08 2019 13:33

Yes exsisting and thanks. 2nd question I’m wanting to use the iconic 32 amp switches hob and oven but I see on the data sheet they only take a 2.5m strand cable. How do you get around this If I’m wanting to use 6mm oven cable for the hob and oven to run off?
   

bakinthegame
Aug 08 2019 19:06

Time to call an electrician.....
   

Boony
Aug 09 2019 09:59

I will be as I want coc as we a doing a major kitchen Reno. But as I want expensive switch gear I’m just wanting to buy the switches sockets in advance to try offset the bill at the end. I just really like the iconic range of switches but no point buying the hob and oven ones if they won’t fit the cable.
   

toyoto
Aug 09 2019 10:57

They'll fit a 6mm
   

AlecK
Aug 09 2019 11:43

Just checked a 32A mech on the shelf; and it will take a 6 mm2
   

bakinthegame
Aug 09 2019 21:16

Ask your mates at Placemakers who seem to know so much about the electrical industry......
   

Boony
Aug 09 2019 22:04

Don’t be salty about it. Everyone sells electrical gear m10 Bunnings etc. and they are screwing the electrical trade. I actually recommend people to buy decent switch gear. I don’t recommend chint, like I said it’s more diy people that buy it.




   

SymonS
Aug 09 2019 22:43

Scroll to the top of the page. Look at the Red Text Bar, and check out the statement that says "Online assistance for electrical trade people in New Zealand and Australia".

Note the bit where is says "electrical Trade people" and then dont let the door hit you in the arse on the way out.
   

rarrar
Aug 10 2019 11:51

you do realise the sparky gets a trade rate and even with a mark up it will still be cheaper than you can get it. although, if you insist on getting the gear are you going to buy flush boxes, flex for the oven and hob,as a lot won't take tps, junction boxes, screws to screw in teh flush box , etc? i get a lot of customers who want to supply say a fan, but expect me to have all the little other things required.... on top of this, am i going to be keen to go and do a job for my hourly rate, or one where i make a little bit from product, and the customer respects me and doesn't insinuate i'm ripping them off?
   

mowgli
Aug 10 2019 18:20

Since when has Iconic been considered "expensive switchgear"?
   

toyoto
Aug 10 2019 18:46

Mowgli, when you start adding the styl cover plates
   

Haydos123
Aug 12 2019 09:57

If on a 32amp breaker then the cable to the isolating switch should be 6mm. Out of the isolation switch run a 6mm down to a junction box behind the hob/oven. Usually new hobs and ovens come with existing heat rated flex. Run them into junction box and terminate. They are both direct connected fixed load so overload protection doesn’t need to be derated only needs short circuit protection.
   

rarrar
Aug 12 2019 10:42

haydos 123, what if the cable is fully enclosed in insulation?

   

Haydos123
Aug 12 2019 12:33

There is heaps of variables with sparky work. If it was completely surrounded by insulation then it probably needs to be derated to a 25amp. I’m not doing the job and one should never assume anything but common sense and experience would tell me that an existing oven circuit probably wouldn’t be fully insulated, especially in an older house. Never the less, in regards to the tails from the appliances you would think they wouldn’t be fully surrounded. They would be in a cavity.
   

AlecK
Aug 13 2019 10:42

The switch for a hob is not required to be an isolating switch. Same for the switch controlling a socket. And almost none of them are isolating switches.
   

rarrar
Aug 13 2019 18:34

haydos123, older houses are where cables are way more likely to be completely surrounded, cables would likely have old insulation added to by neeer stuff sandwiching it